The leather buying guides

What good leather looks and feels like

Good leather deserves more than a vague description.

Leather is a broad word. To understand a wallet or bag, look for the more specific details: the tannery where known, the leather article, the surface and finish, and the way the material has been used in the design.

Made in our family home shop · Bellevue, Washington

A finished wallet beside a hide with the Horween tannery marking visible.

Find their kind of gift.

For the person who notices the leather, loves an unusual design, or reaches for the same useful thing every day. Handmade leather gifts from our family home shop in Bellevue, Washington.

You can see where the character begins.. A panel of Horween leather beside finished pieces from our shop. The hide brings its own grain and color; we choose how to cut it, shape it, and make it part of something useful.

From hide to finished piece

You can see where the character begins.

A panel of Horween leather beside finished pieces from our shop. The hide brings its own grain and color; we choose how to cut it, shape it, and make it part of something useful.

Explore our current Horween wallet editions, or meet the Chicago tannery behind the leather.

Meet Horween leather
1

Start with the material on the actual piece.

Our shop uses different leathers for different pieces. A Horween wallet is named as such. Another wallet in the same design may use a different North American leather. That difference belongs in the product description, where it helps you choose the piece you are actually buying.

2

Horween is a material story, not a label for everything.

You will see Horween in parts of the Viking Line, including wallets made from Dublin or Chromexcel where identified in the listing. You will also see other materials, including S.B. Foot leather on specific pieces. Read the individual listing rather than assuming a color or a wallet pattern identifies the tannery.

3

Look at the character of the surface.

Color, grain and the way the surface catches the light are part of the appeal. Some leathers show a change in tone where they bend or are moved. That visual character is one reason people enjoy leather, but the exact effect depends on the particular material and finish. Close-up photographs tell you more than a color name alone.

4

Thickness is one choice among several.

A substantial Allfather and a smaller card wallet are solving different problems. More thickness can give a design presence, while also adding bulk. Look at the layers, layout and intended use together. A bag’s handles and carrying points call for another set of choices again.

5

The work around the leather matters too.

Hand cutting, saddle stitching, lacing and hand-set rivets appear across our range in different combinations. On a Mountain Line tote, the cut leather shapes and saddle stitching help make the design. On a riveted wallet, the fastenings become part of its character. Judge the whole piece, and follow the care information for the material you choose.

6

Choose for what they value.

If they care how things are made, show them the material and the construction. A named tannery, a visible stitch line and a clear explanation of the design tell them more than a broad claim of luxury.

Turning a piece of blue leather to show its surface and underside.
Turning a piece of blue leather to show its surface and underside.

The edit

A few places to start.

A few good questions.

Does every wallet use Horween?

No. Horween products say so in their names and descriptions. Other pieces use different leathers, with their own material details.

Is thicker leather always better?

No. Thickness affects structure, feel and bulk. The right amount depends on the design and the way you want to carry it.

Do all of your bags use the same leather?

No. The Mountain Line and the coated red/green totes have different materials and construction details. Use the individual product description and care information for the bag you choose.