
Chicago, Illinois · Since 1905
Horween leather. Character from the very beginning.
Tanned in Chicago. Chosen for our workbench in Bellevue.
We choose Horween for the way the leather becomes part of the design: the depth of the color, the feel in the hand, and the character visible around every fold. On a substantial Allfather or a smaller Tyr, the material is part of what makes that particular piece worth choosing.
A tannery with a place behind its name.
Horween was founded in Chicago in 1905, and its leather is still processed there. That gives the material a specific origin, separate from our work making the finished wallet here in Bellevue.
Dublin and Chromexcel have their own character.
Dublin is a waxed version of Horween’s vegetable-tanned Essex leather. Chromexcel is a combination-tanned, hot-stuffed leather known for its pull-up: the temporary lightening you can see when it bends. They are different leathers, not interchangeable names for one finish.
The tannery makes the leather. We make the piece.
We choose the leather for the pattern, cut the panels, and assemble the wallet in our family home shop. Rivets, stitching, color combinations and layout are choices in our own work. Horween is the material’s maker, not the manufacturer of our wallets.
A little variation is part of the appeal.
Use the photographs of the individual piece to judge the color and surface you like. Read its listing for the specific leather and construction. A material name is useful information; it is not a promise that every wallet in a family has the same finish or feel.
Watch the making
Does Horween Really Make the Best Shell Cordovan???
A comparison of shell cordovan from several tanneries. This is background on Horween’s wider leather work; it does not describe the Dublin or Chromexcel used in our wallets.
How Horween Makes the World's Best Leather | Full Factory Tour
A long-form tour of the Chicago tannery and its leather-making processes.
How Horween Leather, Illinois' last tannery, is connected to the NFL
A short news feature on the Chicago tannery and its connection to football.